The invention of the draw loom and the development of brocades allowed patterns to be woven into the cloth, which was often over-embroidered to augment the woven patterns (a technique I now employ on my hats…)
The search was continued by European explorers and missionaries as they traveled through China. During the 3rd Crusade, John of Joinville, the chief chronicler for Louis IX of France, wrote of two envoys where were sent to Kuyuk Khan, bearing with them a chapel..
“…many beauties take the air by the Ch’ang waterfront… their embroidered silk robes in the spring sun are gleaming… and hanging far down from their temples are blue leaves of delicate kingfisher feathers…”
from “A Song of Fair Women” by Tu Fu