The First Art Jacket…

For my first art coat, I decided to do an adaptation of the Eagle of St. John from the Book of Kells. I had wanted to tackle this design for as long as I can remember – first onto a banner, and then onto a cushion. But after my favorite thrift store jacket started wearing out faster than I could patch it, I decided that the Maker needed New Clothes.

I simplified the bird by taking out about half the detail from the original and removing the crosses from the halo. I then disassembled the template to extend the wingspan. For the color scheme, I chose red, gold, purple and blue for the eagle, using up several remnants I had in my workroom. I braided a variety of soutache and cords because I wanted the wings to have chevroning to simulate feathers. I like to add texture to my pieces wherever I can.

I worked this design on a piece of waste linen. I was surprised at how quickly I made progress. The wings came out too spindly, so I added another set of braids to bring it closer to the proportions of the original. It was also a great way to use up some of my favorite laces and trims that I only had a few inches of. I used a button from my collection for the crown in the halo, ad a bezeled glass jewel for the eye. Brass Fleur-de-lis studs tufted the chest in a nod to my upcoming trip to France in a few weeks.

I ended up adding lace tips to the wings to resolve a technical issue with my applique. My first attempt with the legs and feet was all wrong – they were out of proportion and a bit cartoon-like. One of my artist friends pointed out that the legs were actually backwards, and made a suggestion that corrected that issue. I added a key charm because I felt like the eagle should be carrying something.

The jacket itself was patterned after that favorite thrift store find that I mentioned at the top of this article – rectangular construction with dropped 3/4 length sleeves. I was a little concerned about my choice of olive drab for the body of this jacket, but I have learned to not question my initial instincts since that color made the applique work really pop.

I cut the collar and neck facing from black striped raw silk. Because the jacket is unlined, the seams are bound in red lace and tapes. The jacket is intentionally shorter in the back because I don’t like to sit on my coattails on planes and trains. It also mimics the pattern of my first shirtwaist, which is also longer in front than it is in back and is complimentary to my current body shape.

One of my favorite all-time thrift store finds was a Nehru jacket with lace detailing on the inside. It’s a great couture detail that I copied here. I like a little flash of color at the hems of my jackets and skirts, so this purple lace binds the hem of the jacket on the inside. I decided to go with a simple braid on the cuff of the sleeve rather than a more ornate passementerie pattern I had originally planned. The pockets are lined in red silk and use the same lace as the wing detail on the eagle. The front facings are in a red lozenge-patterned silk.

By the time I finished this jacket, I was still tying up my travel plans and had not yet booked my hotels for my trip to France, but at least I would be the best dressed homeless tourist in Carcassonne…